Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however say that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
